Spre Vf. Everest, fara oxigen si ghizi

by | Feb 19, 2014 | Evenimente, Expeditii | 2,231 comments

FACEBOOKPartenerii care fac aceasta expeditie posibila sunt: Bere Timişoreana, Vitas Romania, Allianz – Țiriac Asigurări, Primăria Municipiului Slatina, AQUA Carpatica, Made in TM, Koyos, Deltatel, KATHREIN-Werke KG, Scarpa, CS Alternative TM, Rotary, Synopsis, S75.ro, Himalaya, Sport.ro, Gandul.info, PRO SPORT, DESCOPERA.ro, Federatia Romana de Alpinism si Escalada.

Horia Colibasanu, alpinistul roman cu cele mai bune performante la altitudine extrema, va pleca in expeditie spre Muntele Everest (8.848m), cel mai inalt din lume, in a doua jumatate a lunii martie.

Expeditia Everest Summit 2014 (martie – mai) are ca obiectiv cucerirea varfului Everest, cu propriile forte fizice si psihice, adica fara oxigen suplimentar si fara ajutorul serpasilor, in stilul expeditiilor clasice, alpine. O tentativa reusita ar echivala cu o noua premiera a lui Horia Colibasanu, a sasea, pentru Romania.

Din cele peste 5.650 de ascensiuni reusite ale Mt. Everest, doar 173 au fost realizate fara oxigen suplimentar, adica 3%, potrivit lui Eberhard Jurgalski, o autoritate in domeniu.

Horia va face echipa cu slovacul Peter Hámor (cu zece varfuri de 8.000m in palmares), unul dintre cei mai buni alpinisti din lume la ora actuala. Cei doi vor aborda Vf. Everest pe ruta nordica, prin Tibet (China).

Partenerii si sponsorii lui Horia Colibasanu in acest proiect – menit sa aseze Romania pe lista scurta a natiunilor care au reusit escaladarea Mt. Everest in stil alpin – sunt: Bere Timişoreana, Vitas Romania, Allianz – Țiriac Asigurări, Primăria Municipiului Slatina, AQUA Carpatica, Made in TM, Koyos, Deltatel, KATHREIN-Werke KG, Scarpa, CS Alternative TM, Rotary, Synopsis, S75.ro, Himalaya, Sport.ro, Gandul.info, PRO SPORT, DESCOPERA.ro, Federatia Romana de Alpinism si Escalada.

Horia Colibasanu povesteste: “ In 2004, plecam spre temutul si mortalul K2, din Pakistan, cu echipament imprumutat si cu o manusa plina cu cateva mii de dolari. Un om care ma vazuse o singura data si care era constient ca aveam zero experienta la 8.000m, mi-a trimis acei bani intr-o manusa de munte, o suma enorma pentru acele vremuri, pariind pe mine. Asa a fost posibila povestea de succes K2, neegalata nici acum in Romania. Asa s-a nascut, apoi, povestea celor cinci premiere pe care le-am adus Romaniei.

Le multumesc public miilor de sustinatori, parteneri, sponsori, jurnalisti si simpatizanti, care au facut posibila aceasta poveste in primii ei zece ani de viata. Le multumesc celor care tin aceasta poveste vie in continuare.”

Horia Colibasanu, 37 de ani, de profesie medic stomatolog, este singurul roman care a escaladat varfurile Annapurna, K2 si Dhaulagiri, trei din topul celor mai periculoase cinci varfuri de 8.000m, dupa rata de mortalitate, potrivit “The Economist”.

Horia Colibasanu este si singurul roman care a primit distinctia “Spirit of Mountaineering”  (Piolets d’Or, 2009), din partea British Alpine Club, cel mai prestigios club montan din lume.

***

Despre Horia Colibasanu:

Horia Colibasanu, 37 de ani, este medic stomatolog si traieste in Timisoara. El a escaladat primul munte de peste 8.000m (optmiar) – K2 din Pakistan – la 27 de ani, in 2004, fara oxigen suplimentar si fara ajutorul serpasilor. Cunoscut ca “Muntele Ucigas”, K2 (8.611m) este al doilea varf, dupa Everest, si este inclus in topul celor mai periculoase cinci varfuri din lume. O ascensiune reusita pe K2 are valoarea unui titlu olimpic in alpinism.

Performanta lui Horia pe K2 a ramas neegalata in Romania.

Performantele au continuat cu alte premiere nationale – cinci pana in prezent –  printre care Dhaulagiri (2007) si Annapurna (2010) din Himalaya nepaleza, munti inclusi, ca si K2, in Top 5 varfuri mortale din lume.

 

In total, Horia Colibasanu a atins sase varfuri de peste 8.000m, in stilul expeditiilor clasice, fara oxigen suplimentar si serpasi. Astfel, Horia Colibasanu este considerat alpinistul roman cu cele mai bune performante la altitudine extrema.

 

El este si singurul roman care a primit distinctia “Spirit of Mountaineering”  (Piolets d’Or, 2009), din partea British Alpine Club, cel mai prestigios club montan din lume. Distinctia a venit ca urmare a unui gest considerat eroic, petrecut intr-o expeditie din 2008, pe Annapurna, cand a avut loc cea mai ampla operatiune de salvare din istoria Himalayei. Actiunea a devenit subiectul unui film documentar, “Pura Vida / The Ridge”, premiat la Festivalul de Film San Sebastian.

Despre Everest:

Muntele Everest (8.848 m) este cel mai inalt din lume si este situat la granita dintre Nepal şi Tibet (China). Denumirea tibetana, Chomolungma, inseamna “Mama-Zeita a Lumii”.

Italianul Reinhold Messner a fost primul care a escaladat Mt. Everest, fara oxigen suplimentar, in 1978 (ruta sudica) si 1980 (prin Nord). Varful Everest fusese escaladat pentru prima oara in 1953, de catre Edmund Hillary (Noua Zeelanda) si Sherpa Tenzing Norgay (Nepal). Pana in 2012 (ultimele date disponibile), Muntele Everest avusese 5.656 ascensiuni reusite, potrivit lui Eberhard Jurgalski, citat de “The Economist”, in mai 2013.

Doar 3% dintre ascensiunile reusite au fost in stil alpin, clasic (fara oxigen imbuteliat si serpasi).

 

***Pentru mai multe informatii despre Horia Colibasanu, vizitati: http://horiacolibasanuhimalaya.ro/ro/presa/ *** Pentru alte informatii, va rugam sa ne scrieti la: contact@horiacolibasanuhimalaya.ro ***

 

 

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