Horia reia ascensiunea Mt. Everest – comunicat

by | May 21, 2014 | Evenimente, Expeditii | 1,720 comments

HC (1)

Horia Colibasanu a facut parte din echipa care a reusit prima ascensiune la peste 8.000 de metri in acest sezon din Himalaya – Shisha Pangma (8.027m), pe 30 aprilie – , sezon care a debutat cu un numar-record de decese, pe ruta sudica a Mt. Everest (18 aprilie)

Horia Colibasanu si Peter Hamor reiau astazi ascensiunea Muntelui Everest (8.848m), fara butelii cu oxigen si fara Sherpasi *** Horia Colibasanu: “Urcam Everestul cu respectul care i se cuvine celui mai mare munte din lume – curat, cu fortele noastre psihice si fizice, atata timp cat ii vom putea duce pe piept toata greutatea”.

Horia Colibasanu si slovacul Peter Hamor urca astazi, din nou, spre  tabara avansata (6.400m) a Muntelui Everest, fata nordica (Tibet). Ei isi reiau, astfel, ascensiunea inceputa pe 14 mai. Echipa romano-slovaca avansase cu bine pana la North Col (7.035), dar a fost nevoita sa coboare.

Din cauza vantului puternic, care a suflat si cu 100km/ora, “toate expeditiile comerciale au fost tinute pe loc, iar montarea corzilor in taberele superioare s-a oprit din cauza vremii”, potrivit Explorersweb.com, un site de specialitate care monitorizeaza cele mai importante expeditii din intreaga lume.

“Nici la aceasta ora nu avem fereastra sigura pentru varf. Vantul e prea puternic pentru noi, cei care urcam fara butelii cu oxigen. Insa incercam tot ce putem “, a transmis Horia Colibasanu miercuri, 21 mai, printr-un SMS.

In 2014, gratie evolutiei tehnologiei si a conditiilor de asistenta la altitudine, doar ascensiunile fara ajutorul oxigenului imbuteliat mai au valoare de performanta. “Circa 90% dintre cei care urca pe Everest sunt clienti ghidati. Ei platesc intre $30.000-$120.000 ca sa fie urcati pe varf. Multi nici nu au abilitatile de baza din alpinism”, potrivit National Geographic.

Horia Colibasanu a mai spus ca cei doi alpinisti se simt foarte bine. Saptamana trecuta, starea lor de sanatate se deteriorase din cauza expunerii indelungate la altitudine extrema si a oboselii acumulate in urma asaltului, cu succes, a varfului Shisha Pangma (8.027m), pe 30 aprilie.

Horia Colibasanu si Peter Hamor au inceput, pe 14 mai, ascensiunea spre varful Everest (8.848m), cel mai inalt din lume, fara oxigen suplimentar si fara Sherpasi. Din cele aproximativ 6.000 de ascensiuni reusite ale Muntelui Everest, pe parcursul a 60 de ani, doar 173 au fost realizate fara oxigen suplimentar, adica 3%, potrivit lui Eberhard Jurgalski, o autoritate in domeniu*.

O ascensiune reusita a Muntelui Everest, fara oxigen suplimentar si Sherpasi, ar aduce o noua premiera Romaniei.

Sezonul de ascensiune a Muntelui Everest din primavara lui 2014 a debutat cu o avalansa pe ruta sudica (Nepal), care a produs un numar-record de decese in istoria muntelui, in data de 18 aprilie. Autoritatile nepaleze au inchis ruta pentru ascensiuni, ca urmare a acestui eveniment.

Echipa romano-slovaca a fost prima din acest sezon de ascensiuni din Himalaya care a reusit sa atinga un varf de 8.000 de metri – Shisha Pangma (8.027m), pentru aclimatizare** – dupa debutul dezastruos al sezonului, pe Everest.

For press statement

“Urcam Everestul cu respectul care i se cuvine celui mai mare munte din lume. Il urcam curat, cu fortele noastre psihice si fizice, atata timp cat ii vom putea duce pe piept toata greutatea” – Horia Colibasanu
Foto: Mihai Constantineanu

Horia Colibasanu este alpinistul roman cu cele mai bune performante la altitudine extrema. El este singurul care a reusit ascensiunea varfurilor Annnapurna, K2 si Dhaulagiri, trei din Top 5 varfuri mortale din lume, fara oxigen suplimentar si Sherpasi. Horia Colibasanu este si alpinistul care atins cele mai multe varfuri de 8.000 de metri – sapte pana acum – , dintre care 5 au fost in premiera pentru Romania.

Peter Hamor din Slovacia are 11 varfuri de 8.000 de metri in palmares, dar si tentative reusite de a deschide rute noi pe alti optmiari.

Partenerii si sponsorii lui Horia Colibasanu expeditia pe Everest sunt: Timisoreana, Vitas, Allianz–Tiriac Asigurari, Primaria Slatina, Aqua Carpatica, Made in TM, Koyos, Kathrein, Deltatel, Rotary si Scarpa. Expeditia este sustinuta de CS Alternative, Federatia Romana de Alpinism si Escalada (FRAE), Himalaya si Synopsis.

Partenerii media ai expeditiei Everest Summit 2014 sunt Sport.ro (Pro TV Group), respectiv Gandul.info, ProSport si Descopera (Mediafax Group)

*date valabile pentru martie 2012

**aclimatizarea este un proces necesar supravietuirii la altitudine si consta in urcari si coborari succesive de pe munte. Aclimatizarea ii permite organismului sa se obisnuiasca cu aerul din ce in ce mai rarefiat. La peste 7.500 de metri – unde incepe asa-numita Zona a Mortii  – densitatea aerului este de trei ori mai scazuta fata de nivelul marii. In timpul aclimatizarii, sangele se adapteaza treptat si poate transporta mai mult oxigen.

 ***

Despre Horia Colibasanu:

Horia Colibasanu, 37 de ani, este medic stomatolog si traieste in Timisoara. El a escaladat primul munte de peste 8.000m (optmiar) – K2 din Pakistan – la 27 de ani, in 2004, fara oxigen suplimentar si fara ajutorul Sherpasilor. Cunoscut ca “Muntele Ucigas”, K2 (8.611m) este al doilea varf, dupa Everest, si este inclus in topul celor mai periculoase cinci varfuri din lume. O ascensiune reusita pe K2 are valoarea unui titlu olimpic. Performanta lui Horia pe K2 a ramas neegalata in Romania.

Performantele au continuat cu alte premiere nationale – cinci pana in prezent –  printre care Dhaulagiri (2007) si Annapurna (2010) din Himalaya nepaleza, munti inclusi, ca si K2, in Top 5 varfuri mortale din lume. In total, Horia Colibasanu a atins sapte varfuri de peste 8.000m, in stilul expeditiilor clasice, fara oxigen suplimentar si serpasi. Astfel, Horia Colibasanu este considerat alpinistul roman cu cele mai bune performante la altitudine extrema.

El este si singurul roman care a primit distinctia “Spirit of Mountaineering”  (Piolets d’Or, 2009), din partea British Alpine Club, cel mai prestigios club montan din lume. Distinctia a venit ca urmare a unui gest considerat eroic, petrecut intr-o expeditie din 2008, pe Annapurna, cand a avut loc cea mai ampla operatiune de salvare din istoria Himalayei. Actiunea a devenit subiectul unui film documentar, “Pura Vida / The Ridge”, premiat la Festivalul de Film San Sebastian.

***Pentru mai multe informatii despre Horia Colibasanu, vizitati: http://horiacolibasanuhimalaya.ro/ro/presa/ *** Pentru alte informatii, va rugam sa ne scrieti la: contact@horiacolibasanuhimalaya.ro ***

 

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