Echipa coboara. Nicio ascensiune fara O2

by | May 23, 2014 | Evenimente, Expeditii | 12,532 comments

Horia Colibasanu si Peter Hamor coboara de pe Mt. Everest, de la altitudinea de 7.600m, din cauza vantului puternic *** Nu s-a facut nicio ascensiune fara oxigen imbuteliat pe Mt. Everest, in acest sezon *** Horia Colibasanu se intoarce acasa, cu un succes: Shisha Pangma (8.027m), al saptelea varf de 8.000 de metri din palmares.

“Am urcat astazi timp de 6 ore. Am ajuns pana la 7.600m. Vantul bate puternic. Prognoza arata ca vremea se va strica. E practic imposibil, pentru noi, cei care urcam fara butelii cu oxigen, sa atingem varful si sa si coboram, in aceste conditii”, a transmis Horia vineri, 23 mai, prin telefonul cu satelit.

“Nu mai e nimeni sus, fara oxigen imbuteliat. Nu urca nimeni pe Everest astfel, in acest sezon”, a completat alpinistul.

In 2014, gratie evolutiei tehnologiei si a conditiilor de asistenta la altitudine, doar ascensiunile fara ajutorul oxigenului imbuteliat si neasistate de ghizi mai au valoare de performanta. Potrivit National Geographic, “circa 90% dintre cei care urca pe Everest sunt clienti ghidati, care platesc intre $30.000-$120.000 ca sa fie urcati pe varf”.

Horia Colibasanu si Peter Hamor au inceput, pe 14 mai, ascensiunea spre varful Everest (8.848m), cel mai inalt din lume, fara oxigen suplimentar si fara Sherpasi. Din cele aproximativ 6.000 de ascensiuni reusite ale Muntelui Everest, pe parcursul a 60 de ani, doar 173 au fost realizate fara oxigen suplimentar, adica 3%, potrivit lui Eberhard Jurgalski, o autoritate in domeniu*.

Din cauza vantului puternic, care a suflat si cu 100km/ora, “toate expeditiile comerciale au fost tinute pe loc, iar montarea corzilor in taberele superioare s-a oprit din cauza vremii (pentru o vreme – n.n.)”, potrivit Explorersweb.com, un site de specialitate care monitorizeaza cele mai importante expeditii din intreaga lume.

Sezonul de ascensiune a Muntelui Everest din primavara lui 2014 a debutat cu o avalansa pe ruta sudica (Nepal), care a produs un numar-record de decese in istoria muntelui, in data de 18 aprilie. Autoritatile nepaleze au inchis ruta pentru ascensiuni, ca urmare a acestui eveniment.

Echipa romano-slovaca a fost prima din acest sezon de ascensiuni din Himalaya care a reusit sa atinga un varf de 8.000 de metri – Shisha Pangma (8.027m) – dupa debutul dezastruos al sezonului, pe Everest.

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Horia Colibasanu si Justin Ionescu au adus primul rezultat alpinismului romanesc – si singurul, pana la data de 23 mai – in acest sezon de ascensiuni: atingerea Vf. Shisha Pangma (8.027m) din Tibet, Himalaya, fara oxigen suplimentar si fara ajutorul Sherpasilor

Horia Colibasanu este alpinistul roman cu cele mai bune performante la altitudine extrema. El este singurul care a reusit ascensiunea varfurilor Annnapurna, K2 si Dhaulagiri, trei din Top 5 varfuri mortale din lume, fara oxigen suplimentar si Sherpasi. Horia Colibasanu este si alpinistul care atins cele mai multe varfuri de 8.000 de metri – sapte pana acum – , dintre care 5 au fost in premiera pentru Romania.

Peter Hamor din Slovacia are 11 varfuri de 8.000 de metri in palmares, dar si tentative reusite de a deschide rute noi pe alti optmiari.

Partenerii si sponsorii lui Horia Colibasanu in expeditia pe Everest sunt: Timisoreana, Vitas, Allianz–Tiriac Asigurari, Primaria Slatina, Aqua Carpatica, Made in TM, Koyos, Kathrein, Deltatel, Rotary si Scarpa. Expeditia este sustinuta de CS Alternative, Federatia Romana de Alpinism si Escalada (FRAE), Himalaya si Synopsis.

Partenerii media ai expeditiei Everest Summit 2014 sunt Sport.ro (Pro TV Group), respectiv Gandul.info, ProSport si Descopera (Mediafax Group)

*date valabile pentru martie 2012

***

 

***Pentru mai multe informatii despre Horia Colibasanu, vizitati: http://horiacolibasanuhimalaya.ro/ro/presa/ *** Pentru alte informatii, va rugam sa ne scrieti la: contact@horiacolibasanuhimalaya.ro ***

 

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